Windshields
The stock windshield is generally a bit tall for most people. Many, if not most, riders also complain about the amount of wind buffetting that occurs around the head/helmet area. One solution to that is to add lowers to deflect more of the wind coming up from around the gas tank.
Bucks Lowers
Bucks Lowers (www.buckslowers.com) is one of the favorites across the group. These lowers are specially designed for the V Star 1300 and do an excellent job of reducing the wind buffetting. Be warned, Buck only takes checks (no credit card or paypal).
CUT YOUR WINDSHIELD DOWN
| Written by Buck, Artwork by Mr. Tidy |
| Thursday, 10 June 2004 |
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Reprinted by Permission from Mr Tidy's Tech Tips
| So you ordered the wrong height windshield, and now you have to sit on a pillow to see over the top? Well good friend, let's try to fix that. |
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| Following is a method we all can use to cut down the height of our windshield , and still make it look "Factory Fresh". |
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First, determine the exact amount needed to remove. The best method is to place a "band" of blue masking tape with the top edge where you think you want to cut.
Make the band of tape at least four inches high, so that you cannot see under the bottom of the tape.
Now take a ride !! A good long one !! Keep the tape on for a few days if necessary. You will find that after a few minutes you "settle in the saddle" , which gives you a more accurate idea of how much to cut. I learned this the hard way and ended up cutting my shield three times before I was satisfied.
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| On a piece of cardboard, trace the shield's top outline.
Cut this outline out from the cardboard.
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| Place a 2" wide strip of blue masking tape on the INSIDE of the shield, centered over where the cut will be.
Use the cardboard pattern to trace a "Cut" line on to the tape.
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| The shield will be cut with the front side of the shield down on the bandsaw table top. If using a Saber saw, cut from the front side of the shield with the inside down.
The curved front of the shield must be covered to protect from scratches.
I usually cover with a thin cardboard or heavy plastic bags. Anything to prevent scratched.
Many will disagree but almost any type of saw blade will work. Most shields are tough Polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) which does not crack, chip, or scratch too easily.
I use a "Six teeth per inch" wood blade on my bandsaw. A finer blade demands less sanding but I am too lazy to change blades.
Cut on the line, using as smooth a motion as possible so as to reduce the sanding chore.
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| Here is a very important hint :
Sand the edge round (like the rest of the shield) WITH THE SHIELD STANDING UPRIGHT !!
If you lay it down the plastic dust will cause scratches where it contacts the table.
Use 80 grit paper in a palm sander then switch to 220 for a "Fairly" smooth finish. This job can also be done by hand using the sandpaper on a piece of wood 2 x 4. Just get a smooth finish with a curved edge that is the same as the rest of the shield.
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The final step that produces that "Factory" edge is sort of delicate. If you slip here you will have a spotted shield!
Most hardware stores sell M.E.K. (methyl ethyl keytone) as a universal solvent. This stuff "Melts" plastic. Moisten a COTTON rag just big enough to wrap over your index finger. Get it very wet, but not dripping. With a steady motion, wipe the newly sanded edge in one smooth stroke. WOW !!! It turns clear !!
If necessary , wait a few minutes and do it again. The plastic dries almost immediately.
I suggest you practice the "Wipe" on the piece you cut off. It really is easy , as long as you don't drip.
That's it ! Simple, but do it right the first time. And don't sniff too much of that M.E.K. !
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From This
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To This
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HOME MADE LOWERS
I bought a 3-foot length of 1" aluminum angle at Lowe's. Also bought a sheet of acrylic plastic. I didn't want to spend the money on polycarbonate (Lexan) until I'm satisfied with what I made. I cut the angle into two pieces, each approximately 16” long.
I drew out a pattern that looks kinda like Buck's lowers and cut two of them out of the plastic. They’re 16” long and have kind of a French Curve that starts at about 4”-5” at the top and curves in and out, ending about 3” wide at the bottom. The plastic fills the length of the angle.
Next I drilled four holes in the angle and plastic for each side and screwed the plastic to the angle. I used 10-24 stainless steel hardware, Allen head screws and locking nuts. I put a #10 washer on the screw, between the plastic and the lock nut to protect the plastic. I used lock nuts so I don’t have to over tighten the screws.
I drilled two holes in the other side of each angle so the holes would match the windshield mounting bolt holes. The upper hole is approximately ¼” below the top of the aluminum angle.
Then, after mounting the lowers with only the top bolt, I tilted the windshield back at a good angle and put the bottom bolt in. I put two small washers on that bolt to take up almost all of the space between the aluminum angle and windshield bracket. By tightening the two bolts it squeezes the windshield bracket and holds it tight. Now I have lowers AND a tilted windshield.
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