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  • Finally, you can manage your Google Docs, uploads, and email attachments (plus Dropbox and Slack files) in one convenient place. Claim a free account, and in less than 2 minutes, Dokkio (from the makers of PBworks) can automatically organize your content for you.



Page history last edited by Tom Dooley 4 years, 5 months ago


**Memphis Shades - most popular and fairly low priced.
**Tsukayu - excellent quality and increasingly popular fairing
**Reckless - nice fairing with lots of accessory options
**Wide Open Custom - nice fairing with lots of accessory options
**Corbin - possibly the highest priced fairing available, very nice quality but also with no electronics included
**eBay - budget priced fairings that may work okay, but offering less overall quality


Proper HEIGHT For Your New Fairing SHIELD 
Thanks to GRINDER for providing this very creative and also simple way of determining the exact fairing shield height you will need.

If you are switching from a windshield that was positioned at a perfect height for you, here is a sure-fire 
way of determining exactly what SIZE shield you will need for your new fairing.

**While your windshield is still on your bike, hang a string from an inside garage support with a nut secured 
to the bottom of the string for weight.  Sitting on your bike, position the nut where it is just barely touching 
the top of your windshield.  

Once you 
have your new fairing installed just as you want it. roll up beneath the string and measure the distance from the hanging nut to your fairing to provide you with the exact size 
needed for ordering your new fairing shield.   


FAIRING LOWERS - 1300 riders who have fairings on their bikes are choosing Memphis Shades "Fork Deflectors" more than any other type.  

Those who have Memphis Shades Fairings - - they often also include Memphis Shades "Wind Deflectors" that attach directly to their MS Fairing.  



The stock windshield is generally a bit tall for most people.  Many, if not most, riders also complain about the amount of wind buffetting that occurs around the head/helmet area.  One solution to that is to add lowers to deflect more of the wind coming up from around the gas tank.


Harley Davidson style of WIND DEFLECTORS/LOWERS

Note:  HD has discontinued this part.  It may still be available from some locations but likely stocked out at HD dealers.  Other parts houses are a possibility. If you find a good alternative, please advise forum moderatorso we can post the info here!!  Framistat08/26/2016  Thanks Webb203 for the heads up!

Harley Davidson part number 58121-85B.

This is a chrome-like accessory and DOES require you to drill new lower holes to line up with the OEM windshield mounting brackets. These lowers extend several inches further down the fork leg than others available. The price for these is approx $60.


Provided by PegLeg, this can be very helpful for those who choose to add these lowers:

Mounting them "backwards," they work much, much better.   Look at the bends on the lower.   When you mount them one way (the way many people seem to do), they will literally "catch" the wind, funnel it right up the lower, and send it back off the upper bend, which angles right into your chest and face.

Instead, when you mount them this way (backwards), all the air spills off the lower to the outside.  Any air that does go up the lower gets directed "up" into a high pressure pocket behind the bottom corner bend of the windshield.   A venturi-type of effect then pulls that air off to the sides from the fast moving, low pressure air coming off the sides of the windshield.
Definitely agree with what a couple of folks said about adding the extra (third) mounting point with a spacer (I used a 1"x1/8" rubber washer as a spacer and dampener).  It is the way to go.  Increases rigidity, greatly reduces vibration and flex. 

Photobucket Photobucket


YAMAHA Clear Plastic Wind Deflectors/Lowers.  THESE require additional mounting hardware.  TOTAL list price about $~$170, available at some dealers at a 20-25% discount.  Slightly longer mounting bolts are required vs. the stock OEM bolts.





Written by Buck, Artwork by Mr. Tidy   
Thursday, 10 June 2004

Reprinted by Permission from Mr Tidy's Tech Tips

So you ordered the wrong height windshield, and now you have to sit on a pillow to see over the top?  Well good friend, let's try to fix that.

Following is a method we all can use to cut down the height of our windshield , and still make it look "Factory Fresh".

First, determine the exact amount needed to remove. The best method is to place a "band" of blue "painters tape" with the top edge where you think you want to cut. 


Make the band of tape at least four inches high, so that you cannot see under the bottom of the tape. 


Now take a ride !! A good long one !! Keep the tape on for a few days if necessary. You will find that after a few minutes you "settle in the saddle" , which gives you a more accurate idea of how much to cut. I learned this the hard way and ended up cutting my shield three times before I was satisfied.

On a piece of cardboard, trace the shield's top outline. Cut this outline out from the cardboard. 

Place a 2" wide strip of blue "painters tape" on the INSIDE of the shield, centered over where the cut will be. 

Use the cardboard pattern to trace a "Cut" line on to the tape.

The shield will be cut with the front side of the shield down on the bandsaw table top. If using a Saber saw, cut from the front side of the shield with the inside down.

The curved front of the shield must be covered to protect from scratches. 

I usually cover with a thin cardboard or heavy plastic bags. Anything to prevent scratched.

Many will disagree but almost any type of saw blade will work. Most shields are tough Polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) which does not crack, chip, or scratch too easily. 

I use a "Six teeth per inch" wood blade on my bandsaw. A finer blade demands less sanding but I am too lazy to change blades.

Cut on the line, using as smooth a motion as possible so as to reduce the sanding chore.

Here is a very important hint: 

Sand the edge round (like the rest of the shield)  WITH THE SHIELD STANDING UPRIGHT! 

If you lay it down the plastic dust will cause scratches where it contacts the table. 

Use 80 grit paper in a palm sander then switch to 220 for a "Fairly" smooth finish.  This job can also be done by hand using the sandpaper on a piece of wood 2 x 4.  Just get a smooth finish with a curved edge that is the same as the rest of the shield.

The final step that produces that "Factory" edge is sort of delicate. If you slip here you will have a spotted shield!

Most hardware stores sell M.E.K. (methyl ethyl keytone) as a universal solvent. This stuff "Melts" plastic.  Moisten a COTTON rag just big enough to wrap over your index finger. Get it very wet, but not dripping.  With a steady motion, wipe the newly sanded edge in one smooth stroke. WOW! It turns clear!

If necessary , wait a few minutes and do it again. The plastic dries almost immediately.

I suggest you practice the "Wipe" on the piece you cut off. It really is easy , as long as you don't drip.

That's it!  Simple, but do it right the first time.  And don't sniff too much of that M.E.K. 

From This

To This

EDITED to include helpful information and tips provided by
Following the instructions above, I used a metal cutting blade, 36 TPI, on a sabre saw and it went very smoothly.  Patience is the key, as well as spare hands and a good outline.  Tape is a must, preferably the blue painters tape.  If you are using a sabre saw, remember "front side up."  The extra hands are needed to stabilize the shield and to grasp the waste piece of shield WHILE YOU ARE CUTTING, to prevent vibration.  

You do not need MEK or Acetone of any otherchecmical to finish off your shield.  80 grit on a sanding block (1" x 4" works much better han 2" x 4") to bet your "bumps & ridges down to being acceptable, followed by superfine grit like 320, again using the sanding block to get a nice smooth finish. I did my shield without taking off any of the shield's chrome.  I removed the shield from the bike by unbolting the four side screws.  Easy as pie...don't worry. 



Here's a separate YouTube video showing the process used for cutting and shortening a windshield: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV0KZsxyz90




I bought a 3-foot length of 1" aluminum angle at Lowe's. Also bought a sheet of acrylic plastic.
I didn't want to spend the money on polycarbonate (Lexan) until I'm satisfied with what I made.
I cut the angle into two pieces, each approximately 16” long.
I drew out a pattern that looks kinda like Buck's lowers and cut two of them out of the plastic.
They’re 16” long and have kind of a French Curve that starts at about 4”-5” at the top and curves in and out, ending about 3” wide at the bottom.
The plastic fills the length of the angle.
Next I drilled four holes in the angle and plastic for each side and screwed the plastic to the angle.
I used 10-24 stainless steel hardware, Allen head screws and locking nuts.
I put a #10 washer on the screw, between the plastic and the lock nut to protect the plastic.
I used lock nuts so I don’t have to over tighten the screws.
I drilled two holes in the other side of each angle so the holes would match the windshield mounting bolt holes.
The upper hole is approximately ¼” below the top of the aluminum angle.
Then, after mounting the lowers with only the top bolt, I tilted the windshield back at a good angle and put the bottom bolt in.
I put two small washers on that bolt to take up almost all of the space between the aluminum angle and windshield bracket.
By tightening the two bolts it squeezes the windshield bracket and holds it tight.
Now I have lowers AND a tilted windshield.


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