The Front wheel size is 16 inches in diameter and 3 inches in width. It will accept up to a 140mm tire.
The rear wheel is also 16 inches in diameter but is wider at 4-1/2 inches. This wheel will accept up to a 200mm tire.
Unfortunately, this wheel is a one-of-a kind and no other motorcycle wheel (that we're aware of) will fit.
The wheel will also accept a Dark Side (car) tire up to 205/60-16.
With 20,000 miles on BlackMagic, I'll bet I have screwed around with the rear wheel alignment 40 times in 2 years.
I just could not get it right since having new tires installed and losing the factory alignment pre-sets.
I tried every suggested method of aligning the belts and tires and nothing
worked right. Either the belt squeaked or the bike pulled to one direction or
the other when I took my hands off the handlebars.
That was until I discovered the $6.00 cure. I figured that the way the factory
aligns the bikes is to clamp the two wheels in a jig until the back tire is
aligned with the front, then they tighten up the back tires alignment bolts. A
foolproof assembly line procedure.
(This procedure depends on the type of bike stand or jack you use also)
store. With the rear of the bike jacked up and the bike in gear I zip-tied the
conduit to the rear tires.
(You possibly could use bungee cords substitute for zip ties)
shows up as a very large movement of the conduit as it straddles the front
Fiddle with your adjustment bolts until the conduit is the same distance on either side of the
front tires and your wheels are now in perfect alignment!
By Keith owner of BlackMagic
The cost is approx $20 to $30, give or take a few bucks, depending on what you have on hand and what you should be able to scrounge for free from a sheet metal shop or scraps your friends have. I personaly think you can build it closer to the $20 level as I did. The bearings are the most expensive parts at $17.00, if you have a source for some bearings the stands could be built for virtually nothing.
The main piece of the balancer is a 2"x 2" x 3-1/2" piece of 80 thousands thick metal angle. (obtained from metal building supplier).
The holes to mount the bearings are 3/8" dia. They are 1-1/4" apart and centered, 1/4" down from the top edge.
The bearings are held on the bracket with 3/8" hex cap screws, 3/4" in length, and hex nuts.
2 ea (A) 13 1/2" wood 2 X 4
2 ea (B) 4" X 9" piece of 1/4" plywood
2 ea (C) 8" piece of wood 2 X 4
2 ea (D) 2" metal angle 3 1/2" long
(4 ea) 1614-DCSR12 bearings. .
The bearings are 3/8"ID, 1 1/8"OD. Actually you can purchase any size in this approxamate size range just change your hole locations to accomdate the different sized bearings
To build, center item,"C" to item "A" and attach using 2, 3" long sheetrock screws.
item "A" and attach with 2, 1-1/2" sheetrock screws.
Using 2, 3/4" cap screws, attach bearings to the 2" metal angle.
Notice in the second picture I ground out a small area in between the bearing mount holes This is to give plenty of clearace for the axle if needed.
This project is a pretty simple deal. The purpose of the bearings is mainly due to the grease seals that are on some wheels.
They cause drag. The bearing cradles reduce most of the friction to allow an easy balance of your wheel.