| 
  • If you are citizen of an European Union member nation, you may not use this service unless you are at least 16 years old.

  • You already know Dokkio is an AI-powered assistant to organize & manage your digital files & messages. Very soon, Dokkio will support Outlook as well as One Drive. Check it out today!

View
 

Wheels

Page history last edited by MORG_kw 12 years, 4 months ago

 

VSTAR 1300 Wheels

 


Front Wheel:

 

The Front wheel size is 16 inches in diameter and 3 inches in width. It will accept up to a 140mm tire.

 

Rear Wheel:

 

The rear wheel is also 16 inches in diameter but is wider at 4-1/2 inches. This wheel will accept up to a 200mm tire.

Unfortunately, this wheel is a one-of-a kind and no other motorcycle wheel (that we're aware of) will fit.

The wheel will also accept a Dark Side (car) tire up to 205/60-16.

 

The $6 Wheel Alignment Jig


With 20,000 miles on BlackMagic, I'll bet I have screwed around with the rear wheel alignment 40 times in 2 years.
I just could not get it right since having new tires installed and losing the factory alignment pre-sets.

 

I tried every suggested method of aligning the belts and tires and nothing

worked right. Either the belt squeaked or the bike pulled to one direction or

the other when I took my hands off the handlebars. 

 

That was until I discovered the $6.00 cure. I figured that the way the factory

aligns the bikes is to clamp the two wheels in a jig until the back tire is

aligned with the front, then they tighten up the back tires alignment bolts. A

foolproof assembly line procedure. 

 

(This procedure depends on the type of bike stand or jack you use also)

 

So I invented a way to (almost) duplicate that procedure for short money. I
bought two 3/4" by 10' pieces of straight electrical conduit at the hardware

store. With the rear of the bike jacked up and the bike in gear I zip-tied the

conduit to the rear tires.

 

(You possibly could use bungee cords substitute for zip ties)

 

With this arrangement a very small adjustment on the rear adjustment bolts

shows up as a very large movement of the conduit as it straddles the front

 

Fiddle with your adjustment bolts until the conduit is the same distance on either side of the

front tires and your wheels are now in perfect alignment!

 

By Keith owner of BlackMagic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Motorcycle Wheel Balancing Stands

 

They are separate to be able to adjust for different width wheels. The distance from the bottom of the axle to the top of the 2”x 4" bottom support is 16 1/2".
The rear wheel of the Road Star is approx 13" from axle center to the edge of the tire, this with  a 180/80-16 tire. 
The stand should be fine for most motorcycle wheels.

The cost is approx $20 to $30, give or take a few bucks, depending on what you have on hand and what you should be able to scrounge for free from a sheet metal shop or scraps your friends have.  I personaly think you can build it closer to the $20 level as I did. The bearings are the most expensive parts at $17.00, if you have a source for some bearings the stands could be built for virtually nothing.

 

 

 

The main piece of the balancer is a 2"x 2" x 3-1/2" piece of 80 thousands thick metal angle. (obtained from metal building supplier).

The holes to mount the bearings are 3/8" dia. They are 1-1/4" apart and centered, 1/4" down from the top edge.

The bearings are held on the bracket with 3/8" hex cap screws, 3/4" in length, and hex nuts.

 

 

 

List of parts.

2 ea (A)  13 1/2" wood 2 X 4

2 ea (B)  4" X  9" piece of 1/4" plywood

2 ea (C)  8" piece of wood 2 X 4

2 ea (D) 2" metal angle 3 1/2" long

4 ea 3” long sheetrock screws
8 ea 1-1/2” long sheetrock screws

(4 ea) 1614-DCSR12 bearings. .

           The bearings are 3/8"ID, 1 1/8"OD. Actually you can purchase any size in this approxamate size range just change your hole locations to accomdate the different sized bearings

 

 

To build, center item,"C" to item "A" and attach using 2, 3" long sheetrock screws.

Notch out Item "B" to fit over base "C",and  attach with 2, 1-1/2" sheetrock screws.
Drill 2, 1/8" holes in bottom of 2" metal angle and place bearing side flush with edge of

item "A" and attach with 2, 1-1/2" sheetrock screws.

 

Using 2, 3/4" cap screws, attach bearings to the 2" metal angle.

Notice in the second picture I ground out a small area in between the bearing mount holes This is to give plenty of clearace for the axle if needed.

 

 

 

This project is a pretty simple deal. The purpose of the bearings is mainly due to the grease seals that are on some wheels.

They cause drag. The bearing cradles reduce most of the friction to allow an easy balance of your wheel.

 

Comments (0)

You don't have permission to comment on this page.