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Oil - Filters - Oil Changes -

Page history last edited by Coach 5 years, 6 months ago


Note: Perhaps it's taken for granted that everything will be fine when changing our oil and filter, but there are two basic yet important things that will occasionally create a question or concern:

1. There is only ONE oil drain plug on the engine, located near the oil pan just to the inside of the kickstand.  It is a "17mm" bolt that is partially surrounded by a half-circle metal lip. 
It seems that Yamaha elected to place another bolt almost right next to the "drain bolt" just to try to trick us and keep us on our toes.   : )

2. PRIOR to removing the oil filter, be certain that all debris has been removed from around the filter.  Gravel and dirt have a tendency to become wedged around the little lip that surrounds the filter and can easily fall into the engine once the filter is removed.  This "helpful hint" was provided by SABER4, who happens to believe..... If Yamaha thought it was best to have debris fall into our engine, they would have already put it there at the factory.   : ) 


NOTE: Regarding the proper OIL "LEVEL" after changing the oil: 

Check to be certain that you end up with enough oil where it ends up at about the 3/4 level as seen in the bike's little tiny oil level sight window.  Even if it's at the half-way mark, it's very likely that you will discover the "oil level light" coming on during certain occasions while riding.  If so, add just a bit more oil to raise the level up to that 3/4 mark where the light should no longer be seen.        
As a handy little tool to assist you with this, consider getting yourself a telescopic mechanic's mirror ($5 to $7 at Advance Auto Parts, etc), which can make viewing the level fairly simple while sitting on and strattling your bike.  


Oil Filter Part Numbers

These are the recommended filters for the V Star 1300: 


  • Amsoil EAOM-103  (The only filter that filters to 15 microns absolute, 5 microns partially)
  • Amsoil EAOM-103C  (Chrome)
  • Mobil 1 M1-108 (2.5")  Can be found at many auto parts stores. 
  • K&N 147  Liked by many and provides easy removal with its 17mm nut on the end of the filter, which is very conveniently the same size as the oil drain bolt 
  • K&N 204  Similar to the 147, but made by a different manufacturer for K&N
  • EMGO 10-82250    http://www.emgo.com/index.php/about-us   Highly touted filter oil filter, and only $5 to $7.
  •  Purolator  ML16817 - their motorcycle specific filter.  (NOTE: Purolator verbally very adamantly stated that their 14612/10 PureONE filters should NOT be used in MC engines. These have a 99.9% filtering efficiency and, due to its relief valve requiring a higher pressure than a bikes' oil pump can normally provide, it could "potentially" result in premature engine damage.


  • Bosch 3323 (3.25 in long)
  • Vesrah SF-4007 
  • Yamaha OEM: 5GH 13440 20-00  (5DM-13440-00-00 was Yamaha's part number used from 2007-2009 - same filter) 
  • WalMart SuperTech  ST7317 - an often used filter pulled early in 2012 by Wal-Mart.  According to Champion Laboratories, the following 4 filters are their "cross-referenced" filters to the ST7317:
  • Fram PH7317 (note the number)
  • Mobil M1 MC-134


Other filters:


  • Kawasaki 16097-0004
  • STP SDF13
  • FRAM 6017A
  • HI FLO HF-303
  • Bosch 3300 (2.5 in long)
  • WIX 51358
  • NAPA Gold 1358
  • PER-FORM J-503


Oil Change Intervals 

 Most agree that, when changing the oil, also change the filter.  Why run clean oil though a dirty filter (duhhhh)?  That would be the equivalent of pouring for your house guests some nice filtered water into a dirty bacteria-laden glass.  If you change the oil, also change the filter.  Your bike will be happier and healthier when doing so.    


Yamaha naturally includes in the owner's manual blends of their Yamalube oil, not made by Yamaha, but manufactured to meet the minimum specs they provided for their bikes.


Oil debates will go on forever, therefore use the brand that suits you best.  Regardless, "generally speaking," unless you're riding in summer conditions where both the days and evenings are very warm, there will be advantages found with V Star 1300 when using oil with less than a 20w (cold/winter weight), i.e. a 20w-50.  Otherwise, when the engine is cold, that cold/winter weight of 20w will not lubricate the engine as quickly, nor as effectively or efficiently as a 5w, 10w or at the most a 15w (cold/winter weights) oil, i.e. a 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-50.  And this is important being that one of the times when engine wear occurs the most is from the time a cold engine is started up until the engine has been warmed up to its normal operating temperature. 


Recommended "Motorcycle" FULL-Synthetic Oils:

  • Amsoil -- 10w40 MCF
  • Amsoil -- 20w50 MCV
  • Lucas -- High Performance Motorcycle Oil 10w40 or 10w50  
  • Mobil 1 -- Racing 4T 10w40
  • Mobil 1 -- V-Twin 20w50
  • Castrol -- Power RS Racing 4T:  5w40; 10w40; 10w50; 20w50 
  • Shell -- Rotella T6 5w40 (not a motorcycle-specific oil, but it produced excellent oil analysis reports from both Polaris Labs and Blackstone Labs)
  • Motul -- 300V:  5w40; 10w40; 15w50 (Among the many others riders using it, FrostBite used this 10w40 oil for most of his 100k+ miles in his V Star 1300) 
  • Valvoline -- 10w40 (also 20w50) 4 Stroke ATV (and Motorcycle) Motor Oil
  • Spectro -- Platinum 4 Motorcycle Oil 10w40, 10w50, 15w50 
  • <<There are others>> 


NON Full-Synthetics:
There are many oil brands out there within this category. 


NOTE: Regardless of oil being a full-synthetic, semi-synthetic, or a pure petroleum based oil, any oil displaying a lable on the container saying it is "energy-conserving" shoulld NEVER be used.  This label indicates that "friction modifiers" are included in that oil, a BIG "no-no" for bikes with wet clutches.  Energy conserving oils will cause a wet clutch to slip and gradually worsen over time.  NOTE: Most "energy conserving" oils have a viscosity of 10w30, or less.        


Magnetic Oil Drain Plug, used by many 1300 riders, and others:   MAGNETICDRAINPLUG.COM   


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