Fuel Injection

Page history last edited by JackK 1 yr ago

Fuel Management Systems

 

  1. Fuel Management Systems
    1. Cobra FI2000
    2. Power Commander
    3. Techlusion (made by Dobek)

 

Many riders have gone with an aftermarket fuel management system in order to finer tune their bike.  The stock unit actually does reasonably fine in responding to changes to the pipes or air intake system so you might not need one.  Those that have made the change claim to feel a significant difference in how smooth the bike runs in all RPM ranges and the elimination of "dead spots" and/or hesitation.

 

If you make a change like this, it's a good idea to check your plugs to see if you're running too lean or too rich.  The stock fuel management runs pretty lean, many think too lean.  Here's a great link that shows you what the plugs look like under many conditions.

 

Cobra FI2000

The Cobra unit allows you to adjust 3 different pots (see the description below as to what the pots control). The factory setting is 1-3-1 and most find that work well.  Common wisdom is that you shouldn't touch the first pot (leave it at 1) but you could bump the last 2 pots up a 1/2 notch if you still have any hesitation and/or popping during deceleration.

 

Cobra has two models

  • Open loop - In this case the unit is installed inline but the O2 sensor is disconnected
    • If you have emissions tests in your state, it could fail.

    • Here's a YouTube video of the open loop being installed on a V-Star 1300.  It's pretty simple!

  • Closed loop - In this case the unit is installed inline without any other changes required
    • Most (but not all) riders are using this model
    • Description of the pots:

    • GREEN LED POT (left pot) – With the Closed Loop function of this module you do not need to adjust this setting, leave it at 1.0. Without a closed loop system this adjustment would affect idle and cruise fuel. If you had cruising issues, this is where you would try a different setting. Generally, surging and uneven running while cruising is a lean fuel condition, so adding a small increase in fuel by turning this adjustment clockwise with a small flat blade screwdriver a 1/2 of a position would help. The bike would need to be Test-driven to feel an improvement and only the setting would need to be increased until the surge went away. Also, backfiring or popping on trailing throttle is generally a lean symptom (or an exhaust gasket leak). The same small increases as above would be tried just until the backfiring would disappear.

       

      YELLOW LED POT (middle pot) - this adjustment affects acceleration and power fuel. If you have a hesitation or bogging on acceleration, this is where you would try a different setting. Aftermarket air cleaner assemblies generally lean out fuel mixtures, so try small clockwise increases until a smooth acceleration returns. Starting with the base setting, test ride the motorcycle in 4th or 5th gear and perform moderately fast roll-on throttle from a repeating standard R.P.M. or speed. Increase the pot one position at a time and stop as soon as you don’t feel any improvement.

       

      RED LED POT (right pot) - the right hand or red pot is for the fuel setting required when the engine is maximizing its R.P.M. and power delivery. This pot is similar to the main jet in a carburetor. It will take a combination of a minimum R.P.M. and a predetermined amount of engine load to initiate this fuel. The straightaway on a racetrack or an inertia dyno are the best places to set this pot. Full exhaust systems of high quality construction increase flow characteristics and will increase fuel demands over our base settings. Also, air filters specifically designed for higher than stock airflow can create need for higher fuel setting. Try an additional one-position pot setting at a time.

      .

 

Power Commander

Here are directions for installing the Power Commander

 

Techlusion (made by Dobek)

The Techlusion is similar to the Cobra. However there are two major differences:

1) The Techlusion has only one model. It is capable of being used with or without the oxygen sensor connected.

2) The Techlusion has a 4th adjustment. It sets the RPM at which the 3rd pot takes effect.

 

Green LED pot(1st)

Air fuel mixture screw adjustment. With TFI installed and the bike fully warmed up,

screwdriver in hand, locate the green LED and the pot right below it. Using the throttle raise the RPM to a

high idle or about 2000-RPM. Once there, slowly turn the green pot clockwise from the 1:00 position (off)

until you achieve the highest RPM and smoothest running sound (like a mixture screw on a carburetor).

You should find the best setting between 2:30 and 4:00 o’clock. If you turn the green pot clockwise and the

engine does not accept any more fuel (RPM drops when adding fuel) you may have one or more of these 

problems (See troubleshooting Motorcycle).

 

Yellow LED pot(2nd) 

Acceleration fuel adjustment (bottom to mid range fuel). Anytime the yellow LED is

on, this pot is adding fuel. In neutral raise the RPM slowly up through the mid range and see no yellow

LED. However, opening the throttle quickly from idle you “should” see the yellow LED come on.

Fine tuning: Start with the suggested setting and then add ½ clock position at a time until the bike says too

much (hesitation) then back off 1 clock position, if worse go opposite direction. If no yellow LED there is

not enough load to turn it on. At that point the street or dyno will be able to show the difference. The

yellow pot adds its fuel below 70% of maximum RPM.

 

Red LED pot(3rd)

Main jet fuel adjustment (top end fuel). It adds about 2.5 points of main jet fuel with

every clock position. For example, one clock position is the same as 150 to 152.5 main jets.

Fine tuning: Start with the suggested setting and then add ½ clock position at a time until the bike says too

much (hesitation) then back off 1 clock position, if worse go opposite direction. The red pot adds its fuel

above 70% of maximum RPM.

 

RPM pot(4th): All V-twins. Sets the RPM that the red pot fuel (main jet fuel) turns on. One clock

position is roughly 1000 RPM. This pot should be set to about 70% of redline. (For example: the Yamaha

VStar 1300 redlines at 6300 RPM and 4400 is roughly 70% of redline which would be 4:00 o’clock). On

“some” dual plug systems (Kawasaki, Suzuki) you will need to double the RPM clock position to have the

same results. Verify setting by raising the RPM in neutral, look for green and yellow LED to shut off and

the red LED to turn on at the chosen RPM or refer to suggested settings if you have no tachometer.

 

 

Here's the Techlusion web site

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